Arun is an 11 year-old boy with mild mental retardation. Both of his parents are deaf and mute, and his mother has mild mental retardation. Because his parents are unable to work, he lives with his grandfather. He has a younger brother who is typically developing. His parents live 30 minutes away, so they are able to visit and Arun will leave the school every other weekend to return home. Because of his parents' condition, Arun developed language skills at a significantly later stage than most typically developing infants. He has difficulty controlling the volume of his voice and has problems with the pronunciation of some sounds. Arun would also benefit greatly from working with a speech therapist.
I have prepared an Individualised Education Program (IEP) to help Arun with his English and math skills. He is very interested in learning English, and has strongly improved his vocabulary in the past months. His memory for words (their meaning and spelling) is very good, and he is able to use these words when trying to communicate with me outside of class. His English is probably the most advanced out of all the young students. His Math skills are well developed compared to the other students in his class. He has learned double-digit addition with carry-over, however he does not have a good grasp of meaningful counting. He is able to correctly answer 99+99, but he can only count to 12 in English. When asked to recite numbers he is able to do so quickly and correctly, however when I present him with one number symbol on its own he is unable to identify the number. He can only recall the numbers in sequence and is unable to recognise which names go with which symbols. We have been working on this together and so far he can identify the symbols from 1 to 5. Children with mild mental retardation can hope to reach the intellectual level of a 6th grade child.
Arun is a very warm and caring boy. It is not common for Indians to use 'please', 'thank you', and 'sorry' in everyday conversation, but Arun is always very polite. He tries his best to help me understand what the other children are saying by translating into English.
Arun prefers to play alone rather than with other children. He is very friendly, he gets along well with the other students, and all of the students like Arun, but he still prefers to play by himself or sit quietly. There are many times when Arun will play with me and the other children, but I must usually invite him to join. He is very outgoing and happy, but he will not usually seek out others to play with him. We play a game where Arun pretends to call me, and we chat on our pretend phones, but the minute he speaks to me in Malayalam I say "Malayalam arrila" (I don't know Malayalam) and I hang up. We get through the typical introductions such as "how are you?", "what is your name?", and then he has to think of other words and sentences he knows in order to keep me on the phone. It's a great way to practice his English and his social skills.
Last week, I read Arun's file that was completed when he was first admitted to the school in June 2009. I thought the files must have been switched, because the description of Arun's behaviour was nothing like what I had experienced when working with him. The Arun that I know is very calm, extremely polite and friendly, and gets along well with other although he prefers to play alone. Arun's file described his behaviour as aggressive and stated that he is easily distracted and becomes frustrated often. His IQ was assessed by a psychologist and found to be between 45-49, which would point to a diagnosis of moderate, not mild, mental retardation. After working with Arun for 2 months, it is clear to me that this is not the case. There are clear deficits in his learning ability, however he is able to grasp new, complex concepts. His ability exceeds that of someone with moderate mental retardation. I believe the assessment was compromised by Arun's behaviour (inattentiveness, frustration,...) and the results led to an inaccurate diagnosis. As in North America, many Indian teachers feel that the IQ test has certain flaws. First, it is not sensitive to the cultural differences that exist in India. For example, one criteria is that the child knows how to use eating utensils, but in India this is not necessary to determine mental or physical competency since it is not part of their culture. Also, as in Arun's case, it is not able to distinguish between a child's mental inability to answer a question and a child's unwillingness to answer...a correct answer receives a point and an incorrect or unanswered question does not. It is important, therefore, to conduct behavioural assessments such as the Behavioural Assessment Scale for Indian Children with Mental Retardation (BASIC-MR) in order to determine the extent that behaviour problems can contribute to learning difficulties. At Asadeepam, all children undergo an IQ test to be diagnosed before being admitted, however the teachers understand that the test can be unreliable and they treat the child based on the abilities that they witness personally.
John Aditya is a 9 year-old boy with severe autism. His nickname is Chachu, and it is used so often that he will only respond to this and will not respond when called John Aditya.
He is non-verbal and has many habits that make teaching a challenge. Chachu only walks on the tips of his toes, and often spins around in circles with his hands interlocked behind his neck. He will cup his ears with his hands and make a loud shrieking sound. He also licks his fingers and wipes them on tab
les, chairs, walls, and people. It is difficult for Chachu to sit in one place for an extended period of time. He enjoys running and jumping. When he is given teaching materials such as puzzles, the pieces end up either in his mouth, all over the floor, or he holds them in his index finger and thumb and flicks them against a hard surface making a loud tapping sound. He does this flicking behaviour with any new object he finds, especially clothing, sticks and strings.
He is usually good-tempered, however his mood can change suddenly and often without warning or an apparent reason. Children with autism have difficulty with social interactions. Chachu does not show interest in playing with others, and will often sit by himself with a piece of string. When he interacts with others, the other person is simply a climbing apparatus for Chachu, or Chachu needs the person to get him a glass of water or help him get dressed. He has inappropriate bursts of emotion, and will often start laughing or crying for no apparent reason.
Chachu is very comforted by routine. It is important for activities to occur in the same order and at the same time everyday. He becomes very agitated when the daily routine is changed, and he does not cope well with new environments. He is very anxious around new people or objects. When I was working in Chachu's class, I brought in a new chair and Chachu became very upset and refused to go near it, however within an hour he was playing with the chair. I was also helping Chachu control his hyperactivity and receive some stimulation in the school's ball pool. He was terrifed of the ball pool and refused to be anywhere near it. After an entire day in the room, he was able to pick up a ball from the top of the pool and play with it. If anyone tried to help him into the ball pool he began to scream and crouch down to the floor.
The other students at the school take very good care of Chachu. They will play with him, make sure he eats his meals, and take him from one activity to another. One feature of Asadeepam is that it integrates children with autism and children with mental retardation. Children with mental retardation love to have social interactions and play. Children with autism find this challenging, so the children with MR are able to help them socialise.
Last week, I attended a lecture series on sensory integration (the organisation of sensation by the brain for use in everyday life) and autism. It was organised by the pediatrics department at a local hospital. The guest speaker was a physiotherapist from Chennai. In psychology, we focus much more on the cognitive and behavioural aspects of autism, so it was very interesting to approach autism from this perspective. He explained autism as a sensory disorder, and described methods to improve conduct through stimulation of certain senses. Behaviour that seems to be for no apparent reason can actually be serving as sensory stimulation for a child with autism.
There are 7 senses: taste, touch, smell, hearing, sight, vestibular (sense of balance and spatial orientation) and proprioceptive (sense of relative position of body parts). Children with autism may be under or oversensitive to one or more of these senses and they will have their own preference for certain types of stimulation. They use these senses to regulate their "energy level", or level of excitation. When the child wants to be more alert, they will seek stimulation to raise their energy level. When the child is overstimulated, they will seek stimulation that will make them feel relaxed and calm. Alerting stimuli are fast, erratic, loud, and calming stimuli are deep touch, rhythmic, and slow, depending on the sense that is being targeted. These self-regulating strategies help to stabilize their energy level throughout different activities and situations.
Sensory-seeking behaviour can often be labelled as problem behaviour by caregivers. There are some signs that can help us identify sensory-seeking behaviour. First, the behaviour seems purposeless and does not seem to be done to achieve something (e.g., screaming in order to get a cookie, hitting the table to get attention). Sensory-seeking behaviour seemingly occurs at random times, whereas problem behaviour can usually be seen immediately before or after some kind of trigger. The difference that I find most important is whether the behaviour occurs alone or when others are present. Sensory-seeking behaviour will occur at any time, including when the child is alone. Problem behaviour, however, is much more frequent when others are around because the child is trying to achieve something and needs the attention of others to get what they want.
Children with autism know what type of stimulation they need, but they do not know when it is suitable to seek it or what method of stimulation is most appropriate. Through teaching, children can learn to satisfy their sensory needs in an acceptable manner.
When I returned to the school, I began to pay more attention to Chachu's behaviour from a sensory perspective. Chachu does not seem to have a preferred sense, and he frequently shows sensory-seeking behaviour. To stimulate his sense of taste, he will lick his hands and furniture, and put objects in his mouth. To stimulate his sense of touch, he will run his hands along walls and flick a piece of string against his palm. To stimulate his vestibular sense, he will spin around the room on his toes and hang upside down. I have not been able to distinguish which senses he uses to lower and raise his energy levels. I have found that sounds seem to overstimulate him and deep touch works to calm him.
I have been attempting to turn some of Chachu's sensory-seeking behaviour into teaching opportunities. Chachu loves to jump, so I hold him under his arms and on the count of three he jumps and I lift him up. He enjoys being able to jump even higher with my help. I don't expect Chachu to learn to count through this activity, but it is teaching him delayed gratification and how to inhibit his responses until the appropriate time. if he tries to jump at the count of 1 or 2, I do not lift him and I tell him "No". Counting 1,2,3 is often used at the school by teachers so I am also familiarising him with their sound and meaning.
The lecturer said that we should try to replace inappropriate self-regulating strategies with more acceptable ones. For example, if a child is rubbing saliva on their face they may enjoy the wetness they feel so splash their face with water before bed and do not dry it off. This seems acceptable, however there are situations where a problem behaviour is replaced with something the child finds rewarding. For example, if a child chews on objects, it is suggested that you give them something crunchy to eat so that they mimic this sensation in a more acceptable way. From a behaviourist perspoective, giving the child food following this problem behaviour could be interpreted by the child as positive reinforcement and increase the problem behaviour. The child learns that when they are caught chewing on objects, they are given food. In this case, a sensory-seeking behaviour has become a problem behaviour that is being reinforced. Perhaps if this is started at a young age, the problem behaviours are completely replaced or the caregiver is able to anticipate when stimulation is needed. I will need to learn more about this perspective on autism before I can fully understand how it is used to improve behaviour in children with autism.
Also, many forms of sensory intervention require a certain level of understanding from the child. The caregiver must often reason with the child about time limits and replacing inappropriate behaviours. This is more difficult with children like Chachu who are severely autistic and have difficulty with comprehension. It will take much more time and effort to replace Chachu's current, inappropriate sensory-seeking behaviour with more acceptable methods of stimulation.
The lecturer also gave some helpful tips for working with children with autism:
Shinu is a 15 year-old boy with Down's Syndrome and moderate mental retardation. Shinu started at Asadeepam during my second week, so I have gotten to know him along with the other staff at the school.
Shinu's speech is very unclear, and he has invented his own version of English that he uses to communicate with me. Unfortunately, neither myself nor any of the teachers can understand it. At first, the teachers had many difficulties understanding him, but now they have grown accustom to his way of speaking.
Shinu has a wonderful personality and spirit. I was teaching Shinu's class when he first arrived, and I was trying to assess his skill level in Math and English. He answered the Math problems I had given him (incorrectly) and began to write his own problems. They did not make sense but they followed a similar structure to the ones I had given him. He could also write the English alphabet until the letter "H". Shinu wears a Hello Kitty watch everyday, and he is always playing with it and showing it to others. Shinu cannot tell time, however, so he will always ask you to tell him the time. I noticed that his watch was set to the incorrect time, so I changed it for him. He immediately changed it back, saying that he didn't like the way it looked. After playing outside, the face of his watch broke so the glass and the hands were removed. He still wears it every day, and will still ask you to tell him the time.
Shinu likes to take care of the younger children and myself. Before every meal, he reminds me to wash my hands with soap and asks whether I have showered. When we play badminton outside, he coaches my serve from the sidelines. Shinu loves to sing and dance, and will spontaneously break into either of these activities, but he becomes embarrassed when he spots someone watching him. Shinu will often make a loud moaning sound while completing tasks. He will also often lick his palms.
Shinu can be very cheeky and will try all kinds of things to get what he wants. One evening, we were returning home from an event. Shinu asked the principal's husband to stop for ice cream, but the principal's husband refused. Shinu said that he would start to cry if they didn't stop the car for ice cream. The principal's husband, calling Shinu's bluff, told him to go ahead and cry. Shinu, realising that his plan wasn't working the way he had hoped, turned to another teacher and asked her to start crying instead.
Shinu loves TV, especially comedy films, and he himself has a great sense of humour, although it may not always be intentional. Another intern fell asleep in the car on the way to a dancing competition, and she was leaning against Shinu. He began to stroke her hair and sing her a Malayalam lullaby for small children. These moments, and many more, make working with Shinu a constant source of entertainment. Despite his intellectual and language deficits, Shinu is a very social person.
Rahim is a 45 year-old man with mild intellectual impairment. Rahim was typically developing, however he suffers from severe epilepsy and by the age of 12 his mental functioning had been significantly compromised by the seizures and he was placed in a special school.
Rahim has still retained many of the things he learned in school as a child. His English is very good and he often translates between me and the other students. I am not sure I can always trust his translations, as he is more likely to invent something rather than admit that he does not know how to say it in English. He knows English rhymes and songs like "Jack and Jill went up the hill..." and others that I had not heard before. He knows multiples of 5 very well. When I give him the time, he will reply by dividing that number into 5 (i.e., The time is 3:45pm... 345= 69 x 5). He also likes to test me, but he is much faster than I am.
Rahim is one of the oldest and most mentally developed students at Asadeepam, and as a result he feels superior to both the other students and teachers. Rahim does not respond well to orders, which is the method used by the teachers. They all have difficulties working with Rahim because he does not respond well to their methods. I have found it best to speak to Rahim simply as a 45 year-old man, to which he responds much better. When other students are acting out, Rahim will tell me that their brains are "ill". He clearly sees himself as different than the rest of the students, and does not consider himself to have any intellectual impairments.
Rahim is a very devoted Muslim, and does not socialise with children who are not Muslim. When asked to distribute class materials, he will only give them to Hindu and Christian children last, or not at all. He refuses to say the common prayers with the other students, and prays at dawn and dusk on his own. The other teachers have told Rahim that I am a Muslim so we get along very well. Rahim stays at the school during the holidays because his brother is unable to take him. He is married to a Christian, and Rahim does not approve so he causes a lot of problems in their home. The wife has refused to let Rahim stay in their home.
Rahim has a grand mal seizure about once a month, and he is taking medication to control his epilepsy. After an episode, he is often unaware of what has just happened and refuses to rest. Rahim is also taking medication for blood pressure and diet pills to control his weight.
Rahim is one of 7 children, and his older brother visits every other Sunday. His brother speaks English very well and works as a pharmacist. Rahim's brother comes to the school to bring Rahim new clothes, take him for a nice meal, and take Rahim for things he may need like a doctor's visit or a haircut. I enjoy his visits since I like to learn about Rahim's childhood, and the development of his intellectual problems. Rahim's brother is also interested in psychology and my opinions on hypnosis, homeopathic treatment and pharmacological interventions. Rahim always looks forward to his brother's visits, and will talk about it in the days leading up to his arrival.
Rahim has mild intellectual impairment, but I believe his seizures are too severe for him to hold a steady job. Also, he has a strong personality and is not very tolerant of those who are different. Since he has been in special schools from a very young age, he has grown accustom to the comforts of the daily routines, and I do not think he could adjust very well to living outside of an institution. In North America, it would be possible to find an unskilled job for Rahim, however there are still preconceptions in India that make it difficult to find employment and support for individuals with special needs. Kerala is very focused on social services, so hopefully there will be more employment opportunities for individuals with special needs in the near future.
Georgie and I flew to Mumbai from Trivandrum together, but we were on a different flight from Mumbai to Delhi so I waited an hour for her in the terminal. We had called a hotel a couple days earlier so we knew where we were going once we left the airport. The hotel was in the Paharganj area of New Delhi, right by the railway station.
The next morning, we went to the railway station to book our ticket to Agra. Luckily Georgie knew where to go because there were so many men offering to sell us tickets which were at a much higher rate. We found the tourist office upstairs and bought our ticket to leave that afternoon. We decided to take a rickshaw to see the Red Fort, but since it was a Monday it was closed. We walked around Old Delhi for a while, then we headed back to the train station to make our way to Agra.
After a 3 hour train ride we arrived in Agra. It took a while to find a hotel because some were full and others were asking for a higher price than what was listed in Lonely Planet. Finally we found Sheela Hotel, which was a beautiful enclosed space with a restaurant and garden...and it was minutes from the East gate of the Taj. We woke up at sunrise to visit the Taj since we figured there would be less people and it wouldn't be so hot. When we arrived, we were approached by a man who showed us his card and offered to give us a tour of the Taj. Immediately the scene from Slumdog Millionaire flashed to my mind, but we agreed once he lowered the price from 600 to 200 rupees. I'm really happy we got a guide because we learned a lot about the history of the Taj, and he also knew all the best spots to take the quintessential Taj Mahal photos. The Taj took 20 000 men 22 ears to build. It is made of 42 semiprecious stones and stainless marble that changes colour in the sunlight. The Taj is perfectly symmetrical, including two red buildings on each side which are a guesthouse and a mosque. The coffins of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal are below, but replicas are in the main room directly above. The Maharaja's coffin is larger because Islam states that the man's coffin should be larger. There is a red semiprecious stone inlaid in the marble that looks like fire when a light is shone directly onto it. I couldn't get over how large the Taj was. It always looked much smaller in pictures, but in person it was really overwhelming.
In the afternoon, we took a rickshaw to see Himad-Ud-Daulah, or the Baby Taj. My uncle travels to India every couple of years and this is his favourite building. We were the only tourists, which was a nice change from the Taj. It was much smaller, but still perfectly symmetrical and really beautiful. We checked out of the hotel and took the bus to Jaipur. I shared my seat with a little girl for part of the trip.
When the bus dropped us off in Jaipur we had no idea where we were. We were harassed by a group of rickshaw drivers. After walking a bit and losing most of them, we started to negotiate with one driver. We asked him how much it would cost to get to the hotel and he said we could pay what we like. We said we would like to pay 20 rupees and he agreed. The driver ended up stopping every 5 minutes to ask for directions, even though he said he knew where our hotel was. This has been happening a lot...drivers will pretend to know where to go in order to get our business, but then they will waste our time by getting lost and asking for directions. Once we finally got to he hotel and paid him, he asked for more since it had taken longer. We refused, and he waited outside our hotel for a while before leaving.
The next day we went to visit the City Palace, Jantar Mantar and Hawa Mahal. After a bit of shopping we went to visit the monkey temple, which was a little disappointing since there were only about 5 monkeys there.
In the evening, we went to Choki Dhani which was a decorated village restaurant 15 km outside of Jaipur. There were elephant and camel rides, dancers, tightrope walkers, magicians, henna artists, etc. It was a little cheesy but it was really beautiful and relaxing. We had a great thali and then headed back to the hotel for the evening.
Georgie and I walked to the train station the next morning at 4:30am to catch our train to Delhi. We arrived in Delhi at 10am and I checked into a single room at a hotel since Georgie's flight was that night and mine was the next morning. Georgie had really bad Delhi belly so we decided to take it easy and just visit Humayun's tomb. It was a beautiful place to walk around and explore. The tomb was a mixture of marble and sandstone. After, we went to Bengali Sweet House so Georgie could bring home sweets for her parents. For dinner we went to a revolving restaurant which had a great view of the city.
That night, I said goodbye to Georgie and then the next morning I took my flight back to Kochi. I had such a great time exploring other parts of India, but I'm very happy to be back at the school with the kids!
After a little detour, we arrived in Munnar at noon. We walked to our hotel which was run by a very nice family. By the time we got to Munnar we were ready to take things a little slower so we had an early night after dinner.
The next day, we woke up early to go on a group tour. Our first stop was a viewpoint overlooking the tea plantations. Munnar is famous for being one of the largest producers of tea in India. We visited a sandalwood forest and I was surprised how strong the smell was from the trees. Our last stop was a two hour trek in Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. We were able to see elephant dung, footprints, pathways and tree markings...but unfortunately no elephants. Our last stop was the tea museum, where we learned how the tea was grown and cultivated. The plantation has been around for centuries and it has really done great things for the community like providing jobs, education and healthcare to the local people.
The next day we decided to take another group tour with the same company. We visited Mattupetty Elephant park and got to ride an elephant. We visited Kundala dam, Echo point and the Top Station that overlooks into Tamil Nadu.
After the tour we packed our bags and went to the bus station to catch our overnight ride to Trivandrum where we would take a flight to Delhi.
We arrived in Mysore at 5:30am so we decided to hang around the bus station until sunrise. We took a rickshaw to Mysore Youth Hostel but check-in wasn't until 10am so we waited until then. We checked in to a dormitory shared mainly with Indian girls attending university, but there were also a couple travellers. The beds were 50 Rs. per night and the place was super clean.
We took a rickshaw to visit Mysore Palace, then wanted to see a travel agent but they were all closed because it was a state holiday. We decided to check out Devaraja market, but we ran into a man who said it was closed and that we should visit the British market which would only cost 10 Rs. to get to by rickshaw. We thanked him and said we would go, but that we would walk there. We were a little hesitant because we had never heard of the British market, so we stopped to ask a store owner for directions. He also had never heard of the British market. I asked him if Devaraja market was open and he said yes. We turned around and started walking back towards Devaraja market, but we were confused as to why a stranger would lie about it being closed and then walk away. Thirty seconds later, the same man that had told us about the British market drove up in his rickshaw...suddenly it all made sense. We told him we weren't interested and kept walking. Many rickshaw drivers will offer cheap or free rides, but will then take you to stores or hotels that will give them a commission for bringing tourists. We made it to the market but they were selling mainly produce so we walked around a bit then caught a rickshaw home.
While travelling and speaking to people who had been to Mysore, all of them told us to make sure we were there on a weekend because the Palace is lit up at night and it's really beautiful. Unfortunately that didn't work with our plans so we were there on a Tuesday. While walking around the city though, we noticed that it was a state holiday so when we went back to the hostel we asked whether the Palace would be lit that night and they said it would be. So by total chance we got to see Mysore Palace all lit up and it was definitely worth seeing.
The next day was spent organising a way to get to our next destination. We visited the train station and two bus stations trying to figure out when to leave and where we could leave our bags. Finally, we found that we could leave our bags at the train station and a man assured us that our bus left at 9pm. We decided to spend the day walking around the city. Mysore is much cleaner than a lot of the other Indian cities that we've visited so far. After wasting our time wandering around the city, we arrived at the bus station at 7:30pm. After waiting a while, we decided to double-check our bus time with one of the drivers. He told us that our bus had left at 6:30pm. Georgie and I were both pretty upset considering we could have easily gotten there on time had we known that it left at 6:30pm. Georgie went to talk with the man that we had spoken to earlier, but he kept insisting that the bus was at 9pm and laughed at her when she told him it wasn't. Georgie was also receiving calls from her parents in England because her top choice for university was about to make a decision about her acceptance. It was a stressful time, but we found a less direct bus that left at 9:30pm and were able to get a seat. Georgie was very tense until she got a phone call from her parents saying that she had been accepted. After that, things went much better for all of us...except this bus had bed bugs. The fabric seats are more comfortable than the vinyl ones but it really isn't worth the chance of catching bed bugs.
We got to Hospet in the morning and found a bus to take us to Hampi. This town lies in the ruins of Vijayanagara which was the capital of the Hindu Vijayanagara Empire. Once we got off the bus, there were dozens of rickshaw drivers waiting to take us to hotels. Luckily we decided to walk because it turned out that we were a 2 minute walk from all the hotels. It's very tempting to just hop in a rickshaw once you get off a bus, but this is when you can be charged a lot more because you have no idea where you are. We checked out a couple places and finally settled on a place run by an older couple. Once we settled in the room, I found red marks all over my thighs and lower back. I found a bug crawling in my pants and realised there had been bed bugs on the bus. My cousin was alright since she was sitting in a different set of seats. I showered and washed the clothes I'd been wearing. All the hotels in Hampi seemed to have rooftop restaurants so we went up to ours for a quick bite to eat.
After lunch, we walked to Virupaksha temple located on the main street of Hampi. It is considered the msot sacred pilgrimage sight in Hampi. Monkeys climbed over the intricate carvings on the entrance way. There was an elephant named Lakshmi who blessed visitors to the temple by tapping them with her trunk once she received a coin from them. A group of men asked if we would take a picture. We assumed they meant a photo of them with the elephant, but they actually wanted a picture of us. We refused, and were surprised that even in the presence of an elephant that gives blessings, they were still interested in a couple of foreigners.
After visiting the temple, we walked up Hernatuka Hill to check out some old ruins and temples. The hill was high enough that you could see for miles, and the terrain was very interesting because it consisted mainly of hills made of large boulders. Hampi is a really peaceful place and I loved walking through old ruins and sitting on boulders while watching the view.
For dinner we went to Mango Tree which was a restaurant recommended in our Lonely Planet guidebook. It was built on a cliff by the edge of the water surrounded by trees. We ordered mango lassis and cashew nut curry, then headed home since we were waking up early the next morning.
We woke up early to see the elephant Lakshmi being bathed by the river. There were many locals washing there as well. We took a rickshaw to the Royal Centre of Hampi, where many more ruins had been preserved. It is a little tricky to bargain for rickshaws in Hampi because there are not allowed to travel without a passenger. It is best to reserve a return trip to avoid being stranded somewhere. Also, to get around this rule, many drivers travel with one of their friends so it can be awkward getting into a rickshaw when there is another stranger. After the Royal Centre, we visited Vittala temple via a footpath along the river.
We had been told by several travellers to check out a nearby waterfall so we set out the next morning to find it. We got almost all the way there but we were having trouble figuring out how to cross a patch of tall bushes. A man on the other side pointed out the way and then showed us to the waterfalls, which was really more like a stream rushing through a ton of boulders. The water had eroded them in to interesting shapes and it was a lot of fun to navigate our way around. The man told us that he lived in a small hut under one of the boulders and he made a living by taking tourists on boat rides back to the main city. We decided instead to walk but thanked him for his time.
Once back in the city, we decided to do a little shopping. Many of the shops had been built into the structures that remain from the Vijayanagara Empire. We bought a couple things, but noticed that the experience was very different from the other places we had been. Hampi has recently become a new tourist destination and I don't think all the shopowners are used to dealing with tourists yet.
That night, we took the bus to Mysore. It was definitely my most uncomfortable bus ride so far. The roads were incredibly bumpy and at every bump the windows would slide open so it was freezing all night. On the plus side, the bus was pretty empty so we were able to lie across several seats.
We went in search of a hotel with a German musician/artist/acrobat that we had met on the bus. We ended up finding a group of cheap huts near the beach. At sunset, we walked down to the water. There was already a large group of people gathered with drums, guitars and flutes. People were doing acrobatics, dancing, and relaxing as they watched the sunset. There were people from all over the world and people of all ages. Arambol was much more like the hippy, bohemian image of Goa that I had in my mind. Anjuna had great food and shopping, but the people were much older and usually it was their only stop in India.
For dinner, we went to a place with low tables and pillows on the beach. It was run by a man from London who had moved here a year ago to start his own restaurant. We ate with a Spanish girl who had been living in London for 10 years, and a man who was originally from North England but he had been travelling non-stop for the past 15 years so he had lost his native accent.
After dinner, we walked along the beach and stopped for drinks at a beachside bar.
The next day, we spent all of our time on the beach swimming and reading. In the evening we went to a restaurant owned by a Russian couple. There were a lot of Russians in Goa since India is fairly nearby and there are beautiful beaches and resorts in Goa. The menu of this restaurant was written in English and Russian. We ordered Tibetan momos and chicken biryani.
For our last day in Goa we decided to spend the morning at the beach, then had chicken curry sandwiches and lemon cheese pie for lunch. We left for Mapusa in the afternoon and caught an overnight bus to Hampi.
The train to Goa was 16 hours, but fortunately it was overnight and we met a group of travellers from Melbourne, Australia. We chatted about our experiences in India and one of them had a guitar so we listened to him play for a while. The train stopped in Madgaon which is a small town inland. We took a second train to Thivim and a rickshaw to Anjuna.
We stayed in a guesthouse about a kilometre inland from the beach. Since it was early, we set out to find some breakfast. I had the most delicious fruit salad with apples, bananas, pineapple, papaya, pomegranates, and red and green grapes at Cafe Diogo. We spent the afternoon at the beach, but we made sure to apply lots of sunscreen after our experience in Varkala. For dinner, we went to a beachside restaurant with an amazing view of the sunset. I ordered the stuffed crab and it was so delicious. Anjuna has definitely had the best seafood in India so far.
The next morning, we went to the famous Anjuna flea market. There were hundreds of vendors selling all kinds of Indian souvenirs. Georgie and I found lots of things that we were looking for, but our bargaining skills were really put to the test. When we finished shopping, we checked out of our hotel and took the bus to Mapusa where we caught a second bus to Arambol.
March 6th was my 22nd birthday, and I had promised the school that I would return to celebrate with them. In the morning, Georgie and I taught the Primary-I class which consisted on Abin and Chachu. Abin has mild MR and very severe ADHD. It is very difficult to keep him seated and focused on a task. Chachu has severe autism and is non-verbal. It was nice to show Georgie what I had been doing for the past two months, and she really enjoyed getting to meet all the children. I had sponsored lunch at the school, so we had chicken biriyani. After lunch, we went up to the classroom and the children performed dances and songs for us. I joined in on a couple of the dances with the children, and Georgie and I sang "Twinkle, Twinkle, Litte Star" for the kids. As a birthday gift, the principal gave me a saree, flowers and a little decorated jar for kum kum powder (used on women's foreheads). It was an amazing day and I'm so happy that I was able to celebrate with my school.
In the evening, we took the bus back to Bel Air. Franca and Pien had bought a cake so we sat and shared it together. We went to Tandoor for dinner with Jeffy, Diana and Akhil. Another AIESEC member, Ashish, came by after dinner to drive us to the night club at Dreams Hotel. Once there, we met with Douglas and Jasper. We had a couple drinks and danced. Ashish had the DJ announce that it was my birthday.
Later in the night, the waitress brought over a cake. Ashish grabbed a handful of the cake and rubbed it all over my face.... an Indian birthday tradition.
Nightclubs close around 1:00am in Kochi, so afterwards we went to Jasper's flat. Georgie wasn't feeling well so we dropped her off beforehand. We stayed and talked at Jasper's until about 3:00am and then headed back to Bel Air. I had an unforgettable birthday in Kochi and it was all thanks to the amazing people I've met here.
I woke up at 6:00am the next morning to go jogging with the kids. We played until breakfast, then Georgie and I prepared our bags. After Assembly, we left for Ernakulam in order to catch the train to Goa at 2:30pm. Before the train, we decided to have a South Indian thali at a local organic restaurant called Lumiere before heading further north.
We arrived at the intern flat, Bel Air, around 6pm. Two interns are already living there and they welcomed us in: Pien from Holland and Franca from Germany. We're stayed in to watch TV and a film.
The next morning, we took a bus then a ferry to get to Fort Kochi. We visited Santa Cruz Basilica, chinese fishing nets, Jew Street and Dutch Palace. We stopped at a restaurant and had fish and calamari for dinner. That evening, we went to see a Kathakali performance, Kerala's traditional dance. The make-up is very elaborate and takes an hour to apply. The show was interesting, but difficult to follow as any narration was in Malayalam and the characters were difficult to differentiate since the make-up and clothing were similar.
We arrived in Alleppey around noon and found our hotel, Palmy Residences. So many men offering hotels or backwater boat tours stopped us while we were on our way to our hotel. Once we had settled, we walked to Thaff restaurant since we had read in Lonely Planet that it had the coldest milkshakes around. It's tough to find cold drinks in India because you're advised to stay away from ice and the climate is so hot that things melt easily. The milkshakes were not disappointing at all, and they were very cheap. We walked around the city a bit, then went back to the hotel to discuss taking a backwater tour the next day. We took a rickshaw to have dinner at the Alleppey Prince Hotel, then decided to go back to Thaff for another milkshake. On the walk back from Thaff, a young guy on a motorbike stopped to ask us our names and where we were staying. This happens a lot in India so we've learned to ignore these questions. The guy muttered something then drove away, made a U-turn and headed back towards us. While driving on the wrong side of the road, he clipped Georgie on the leg and arm with his motorbike and kept on driving. Luckily Georgie wasn't hurt, but we were both really shocked and decided to head straight back to the hotel since it was already dark.
The next morning, we both hopped on the back of the hotel owner's motorbike and he drove us to our boat for the backwater tour. Our trip lasted about 4 hours, and we saw rice fields, a water pump, beautiful houseboats and a mix of small and large rivers that make up the backwaters. We were travelling in a small canoe, but many tourists will rent a houseboat for a couple nights. This can be one of the most expensive things you do in India, but it can be well worth the money as the scenery is beautiful and living on a houseboat allows you to really take advantage of being on the backwaters.
Of course, for lunch we had to go back to Thaff to get one last milkshake and try some of their food, which was delicious. After lunch, we caught a bus to Ernakulam.
We took the train from Varkala to Kanyakumari, the most southern point in India. We took a rickshaw into the centre of town for 10 Rs. The driver was clearly interested in showing us certain hotels where he could collect a commission, but we told him we had already found a hotel. Since it was almost sunset, we decided to head straight to the water to watch it with everyone who had already gathered. Just as we reached the western coast, we heard clapping...the sun had just set. Luckily we were there for one more night so we could catch it the next day. We wandered around the point and saw a small memorial that was built in honour of Mahatma Gandhi. There was also a statue that was built to pay tribute to the victims of the 2004 tsunami. We met a couple from Israel and asked where they were staying, but it was far and a little more expensive than what we were looking for so we visited some places mentioned in our Lonely Planet guide. We checked into the Mannickan Hotel, then walked back to the main street to find something to eat. We came across a hole in the wall called Idly Shop where there was only one other table of tourists. We ordered masala dosa, idly and Fantas for about 40 Rs and it was delicious. It was getting late so we walked back to the hotel and found that Legally Blond was playing so we spent the rest of the night watching it.
We woke up at 5am the next morning in order to see the sun rise. There were much fewer people than at sunset the previous day, so we were able to get a place to sit where the fishermen dock their boats. The view was amazing and definitely worth waking up at such an early hour. After breakfast, we went to visit the local temple. It was a very different experience from the one in Varkala. There were tons of people being pushed through the building very quickly. We were taken to the front of the line, then we were told to stand to the side so we could watch the people receive their blessings. There was so much pushing and shoving, which was strange to see in a place meant for worship.
We took a ferry to a nearby island which held the Vivekananda Rock Memorial and the Thiruvalluvar statue.
Our next destination was Alleppey and the train didn't leave until the next morning. We walked down to see the sunset, but unfortunately it was too cloudy to see the sun pass the horizon.
The next morning we caught the train to Trivandrum at 5:30am and then took a 4 hour bus to Alleppey.
